Author: Peter Janssen Publisher: Cambridge University Press ISBN: 0521465400 Category : Science Languages : en Pages : 310
Book Description
This book was published in 2004. The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind describes in detail the two-way interaction between wind and ocean waves and shows how ocean waves affect weather forecasting on timescales of 5 to 90 days. Winds generate ocean waves, but at the same time airflow is modified due to the loss of energy and momentum to the waves; thus, momentum loss from the atmosphere to the ocean depends on the state of the waves. This volume discusses ocean wave evolution according to the energy balance equation. An extensive overview of nonlinear transfer is given, and as a by-product the role of four-wave interactions in the generation of extreme events, such as freak waves, is discussed. Effects on ocean circulation are described. Coupled ocean-wave, atmosphere modelling gives improved weather and wave forecasts. This volume will interest ocean wave modellers, physicists and applied mathematicians, and engineers interested in shipping and coastal protection.
Author: I.R. Young Publisher: Elsevier ISBN: 0080543804 Category : Science Languages : en Pages : 307
Book Description
The goals of wind wave research are relatively well defined: to be able to predict the wind wave field and its effect on the environment. That environment could be natural (beaches, the atmosphere etc.) or imposed by human endeavour (ports, harbours, coastal settlements etc.). Although the goals are similar, the specific requirements of these various fields differ considerably. This book attempts to summarise the current state of this knowledge and to place this understanding into a common frame work. It attempts to take a balanced approach between the pragmatic engineering view of requiring a short term result and the scientific quest for detailed understanding. Thus, it attempts to provide a rigorous description of the physical processes involved as well as practical predictive tools.
Author: Igor Lavrenov Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media ISBN: 9783540440154 Category : Science Languages : en Pages : 394
Book Description
The study of sea waves has always been in the focus of mankind's atten tion. This is attributed not only to a desire to understand the behaviour in seas and oceans, but also, it has some practical necessity. Developing up-to date wind wave numerical methods requires detailed mathematical modelling, starting with wave generation, development, propagation and transformation on the surface in different water areas under quasi-stationary conditions, up to a synthesis of climatic features observed under different wave generation conditions in oceans, sea or coastal areas. The present monograph considers wind waves in terms of the most general formulation of the problem as a probable hydrodynamic process with wide spatial variability. It ranges between the global scale of the oceans, whose typical size is comparable with the Earth's radius, to the regional and local scales of the seas, including water areas limited in space with significant current or depth gradients in coastal zones, where waves cease their existence having propagated tens of thousand miles.
Author: Henry B. Bigelow Publisher: ISBN: 9781410203625 Category : Science Languages : en Pages : 216
Book Description
This is a reprint of an excellent 1947 U. S. Naval Hydrographic Office publication on wind, waves, breakers and surf. Chapters include: The Physical Nature of Wind Waves, The Dimensions of Waves, The Contours of Waves (effects of currents, shoals, measurement), Seas and Swells, The Frequency of High
Author: The BACC II Author Team Publisher: Springer ISBN: 3319160060 Category : Science Languages : en Pages : 501
Book Description
This book is an update of the first BACC assessment, published in 2008. It offers new and updated scientific findings in regional climate research for the Baltic Sea basin. These include climate changes since the last glaciation (approx. 12,000 years ago), changes in the recent past (the last 200 years), climate projections up until 2100 using state-of-the-art regional climate models and an assessment of climate-change impacts on terrestrial, freshwater and marine ecosystems. There are dedicated new chapters on sea-level rise, coastal erosion and impacts on urban areas. A new set of chapters deals with possible causes of regional climate change along with the global effects of increased greenhouse gas concentrations, namely atmospheric aerosols and land-cover change. The evidence collected and presented in this book shows that the regional climate has already started to change and this is expected to continue. Projections of potential future climates show that the region will probably become considerably warmer and wetter in some parts, but dryer in others. Terrestrial and aquatic ecosystems have already shown adjustments to increased temperatures and are expected to undergo further changes in the near future. The BACC II Author Team consists of 141 scientists from 12 countries, covering various disciplines related to climate research and related impacts. BACC II is a project of the Baltic Earth research network and contributes to the World Climate Research Programme.
Author: Efim Pelinovsky Publisher: Springer ISBN: 3319215752 Category : Science Languages : en Pages : 236
Book Description
This revised and updated second edition details the vast progress that has been achieved in the understanding of the physical mechanisms of rogue wave phenomenon in recent years. The selected articles address such issues as the formation of rogue waves due to modulational instability of nonlinear wave field, physical and statistical properties of extreme ocean wave generation in deep water as well as in shallow water, various models of nonlinear water waves, special analysis of nonlinear resonances between water waves and the relation between in situ observations, experimental data and rogue wave theories. In addition, recent results on tsunami waves due to subaerial landslides are presented. This book is written for specialists in the fields of fluid mechanics, applied mathematics, nonlinear physics, physical oceanography and geophysics, and for students learning these subjects.
Author: Leo H. Holthuijsen Publisher: Cambridge University Press ISBN: 1139462520 Category : Science Languages : en Pages : 9
Book Description
Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.
Author: Peter Janssen
Author: I.R. Young
Author: Igor Lavrenov
Author: Henry Bryant Bigelow
Author: Henry B. Bigelow
Author: J. B. Zirker
Author: The BACC II Author Team
Author: Efim Pelinovsky
Author: Leo H. Holthuijsen
Author: Henry Bryant Bigelow