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Author: Stanislaw R. Massel Publisher: World Scientific ISBN: 9789810221096 Category : Science Languages : en Pages : 514
Book Description
This book is intended as a handbook for professionals and researchers in the areas of Physical Oceanography, Ocean and Coastal Engineering and as a text for graduate students in these fields. It presents a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, including basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of various wave parameters and applications in ocean and coastal engineering, all from the probabilistic and spectral points of view. The book commences with a description of mechanisms of surface wave generation by wind and its modern modeling techniques. The stochastic and probabilistic terminology is introduced and the basic statistical and spectral properties of ocean waves are developed and discussed in detail. The bulk of material deals with the prediction techniques for waves in deep and coastal waters for simple and complex ocean basins and complex bathymetry. The various prediction methods, currently used in oceanography and ocean engineering, are described and the examples of practical calculations illustrate the basic text. An appendix provides a description of the modern methods of wave measurement, including the remote sensing techniques. Also the wave simulation methods and random data analysis techniques are discussed. In the book a lot of discoveries of the Russian and East European scientists, largely unknown in the Western literature due to the language barrier, are referred to.
Author: Stanislaw R. Massel Publisher: World Scientific ISBN: 9789810221096 Category : Science Languages : en Pages : 514
Book Description
This book is intended as a handbook for professionals and researchers in the areas of Physical Oceanography, Ocean and Coastal Engineering and as a text for graduate students in these fields. It presents a comprehensive study on surface ocean waves induced by wind, including basic mathematical principles, physical description of the observed phenomena, practical forecasting techniques of various wave parameters and applications in ocean and coastal engineering, all from the probabilistic and spectral points of view. The book commences with a description of mechanisms of surface wave generation by wind and its modern modeling techniques. The stochastic and probabilistic terminology is introduced and the basic statistical and spectral properties of ocean waves are developed and discussed in detail. The bulk of material deals with the prediction techniques for waves in deep and coastal waters for simple and complex ocean basins and complex bathymetry. The various prediction methods, currently used in oceanography and ocean engineering, are described and the examples of practical calculations illustrate the basic text. An appendix provides a description of the modern methods of wave measurement, including the remote sensing techniques. Also the wave simulation methods and random data analysis techniques are discussed. In the book a lot of discoveries of the Russian and East European scientists, largely unknown in the Western literature due to the language barrier, are referred to.
Author: Alexander Babanin Publisher: Cambridge University Press ISBN: 1139502727 Category : Science Languages : en Pages : 479
Book Description
Wave breaking represents one of the most interesting and challenging problems for fluid mechanics and physical oceanography. Over the last fifteen years our understanding has undergone a dramatic leap forward, and wave breaking has emerged as a process whose physics is clarified and quantified. Ocean wave breaking plays the primary role in the air-sea exchange of momentum, mass and heat, and it is of significant importance for ocean remote sensing, coastal and ocean engineering, navigation and other practical applications. This book outlines the state of the art in our understanding of wave breaking and presents the main outstanding problems. It is a valuable resource for anyone interested in this topic, including researchers, modellers, forecasters, engineers and graduate students in physical oceanography, meteorology and ocean engineering.
Author: Chiang C. Mei Publisher: World Scientific ISBN: 9789971507893 Category : Science Languages : en Pages : 770
Book Description
The aim of this book is to present selected theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering, all from the deterministic point of view. The bulk of the material deals with the linearized theory.
Author: Leo H. Holthuijsen Publisher: Cambridge University Press ISBN: 1139462520 Category : Science Languages : en Pages : 9
Book Description
Waves in Oceanic and Coastal Waters describes the observation, analysis and prediction of wind-generated waves in the open ocean, in shelf seas, and in coastal regions with islands, channels, tidal flats and inlets, estuaries, fjords and lagoons. Most of this richly illustrated book is devoted to the physical aspects of waves. After introducing observation techniques for waves, both at sea and from space, the book defines the parameters that characterise waves. Using basic statistical and physical concepts, the author discusses the prediction of waves in oceanic and coastal waters, first in terms of generalised observations, and then in terms of the more theoretical framework of the spectral energy balance. He gives the results of established theories and also the direction in which research is developing. The book ends with a description of SWAN (Simulating Waves Nearshore), the preferred computer model of the engineering community for predicting waves in coastal waters.
Author: Chiang C. Mei Publisher: World Scientific ISBN: 9812561560 Category : Nonlinear waves Languages : en Pages : 540
Book Description
Presents theoretical topics on ocean wave dynamics, including basic principles and applications in coastal and offshore engineering as well as coastal oceanography. It is intended for graduate students and researchers in coastal and ocean engineering, geophysical fluid dynamicists interested in water waves.
Author: Mikhail B. Kanevsky Publisher: Elsevier ISBN: 9780080932514 Category : Science Languages : en Pages : 208
Book Description
This book is dedicated to studying the ocean with radar tools, in particular, with space radars. Being intended mainly for the scientists preoccupied with the problem (as well as senior course students), it concentrates and generalizes the knowledge scattered over specialized journals. The significant part of the book contains the results obtained by the author. * Systematically collects and describes the approaches used by different laboratories and institutions * Deals with the physics of radar imagery and specifically with ocean surface imagery. * Useful for students and researchers specializing in the area of ocean remote sensing using airborne or space-borne radars, both SAR and RAR
Author: Peter Janssen Publisher: Cambridge University Press ISBN: 0521465400 Category : Science Languages : en Pages : 310
Book Description
This book was published in 2004. The Interaction of Ocean Waves and Wind describes in detail the two-way interaction between wind and ocean waves and shows how ocean waves affect weather forecasting on timescales of 5 to 90 days. Winds generate ocean waves, but at the same time airflow is modified due to the loss of energy and momentum to the waves; thus, momentum loss from the atmosphere to the ocean depends on the state of the waves. This volume discusses ocean wave evolution according to the energy balance equation. An extensive overview of nonlinear transfer is given, and as a by-product the role of four-wave interactions in the generation of extreme events, such as freak waves, is discussed. Effects on ocean circulation are described. Coupled ocean-wave, atmosphere modelling gives improved weather and wave forecasts. This volume will interest ocean wave modellers, physicists and applied mathematicians, and engineers interested in shipping and coastal protection.
Author: Massel Stanislaw Ryszard Publisher: World Scientific ISBN: 9813228393 Category : Science Languages : en Pages : 800
Book Description
This book is an extended and substantially updated edition of the previous book editions published in 1996 and 2013 under the same title. The 3rd edition is a one-volume, modern and comprehensive overview of the current knowledge of regular and random ocean surface waves in deep waters and in coastal zones. Since the previous editions many new theoretical advances have been made in the physical understanding and analytical and numerical treatment of various ocean wave problems. The revisions and supplements demanded by these advances have been substantial, therefore the scope of the book has been extended by adding a new chapter and substantially supplementing others. All chapters of the book have been rewritten to include and describe in detail many new discoveries made since the completion of the previous editions. In this 3rd edition a comprehensive and updated overview of the fundamentals of the regular wave mechanics, as well as the spectral and statistical properties of random waves are given. Except for the updated chapters dedicated to tsunami and extreme waves, a new chapter dealing with other types of impulsive waves starting from rest, are also included. The air-sea interaction processes as well as the last improvements in ocean wave modelling and presently available wave prediction models (WAM, WAVEWATCH III, UMWM, NEMO) are thoroughly discussed and their applications are demonstrated. The review of the present ocean observation methods encompasses the modern sea-truthing, as well as applications of data from presently operating marine satellites. In this revised edition, chapters on the behavior of surface waves in the vegetated environments such as coral reef, mangrove forest, seaweed and seagrass areas are substantially extended and updated to include the last discoveries. The explanations in the book are self-contained and detailed enough to capture the interest of the potential readers and to prompt them to explore the research literature. The list of rapidly growing number of the recent papers on the ocean waves has been extended substantially, up to about 900 titles. Contents: IntroductionInteraction of Surface Waves and WindSpectral Properties of Ocean WavesStatistical Properties of Ocean WavesProperties of Breaking WavesPrediction of Waves in Deep WaterPrediction of Waves in Shallow WaterRogue WavesWave Motion Starting from Rest: TsunamiWave Motion Starting from Rest: Other ExamplesWaves at Coral Reefs and IslandsWaves in Vegetated CoastsWave-induced Pressure and Flow in a Porous BottomWave Observations and Long-term StatisticsWave Measurement TechniquesData Processing and Simulation Techniques Readership: Graduate students, professionals and researchers, including marine research specialist, in ocean and coastal engineering and oceanography. Keywords: Ocean Wave Physics;Wave Mathematical Principles;Spectral Analysis of Waves;Statistics of Observed Waves;Wave Numerical Modelling;Waves in Vegetated Coasts;Extreme WavesReview: Key Features: The book presents a comprehensive, broad-scope and modern one-volume study of the ocean surface wavesAll subjects are presented with the aim of demonstrating the close link between ocean physics and wave predictions, as well as ocean engineeringThe book includes recent achievements published in languages other than English, such as Russian and Polish, with very extensive list of references encompassing more than 900 titles
Author: Stanislaw R. Massel Publisher: Springer Science & Business Media ISBN: 0387690921 Category : Science Languages : en Pages : 332
Book Description
This book fills a gap in knowledge of breaking waves and their influence on the generation of marine fluxes from ocean surfaces. Based on published data as well as on the author's experience, the text explores in detail the relationship chain of breaking waves, whitecaps coverage, rate of wave energy dissipation, amount of aerosol fluxes rising from a given sea basin, and possible seasonal variations.
Author: Stanislaw R. Massel
Author: Stanislaw R. Massel
Author: Alexander Babanin
Author: Chiang C. Mei
Author: Leo H. Holthuijsen
Author: Chiang C. Mei
Author: Mikhail B. Kanevsky
Author: Peter Janssen
Author: Willard Bascom
Author: Massel Stanislaw Ryszard
Author: Stanislaw R. Massel